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At Nopa, a Wine List That Proves the Virtue of Constancy
San Francisco today is a city that’s basically defined by change. Disruption was the word, I guess—until all things were disrupted. Now the city has moved into a state of sustained alteration, a...
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The Insider’s Guide to Orange Wine
It’s fair to say we’re on at least the third wave of orange wine—past their initial reintroduction, and past a wave of experimentation. “Orange” is shorthand for describing skin-contact white wines:...
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There’s More to Tasting Wine Than, Well, Taste
There’s an interesting oversight in The Taste of Wine, the classic book by the French wine scientist Émile Peynaud. Peynaud prodigiously describes how we perceive a wine’s smells, tastes—even...
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Does Bordeaux Even Want to Change?
It’s in a parking lot in the town of Pauillac where I learn an essential lesson about Bordeaux’s current problems. I pull into the Intermarché to get some gas. The asphalt is cracked, the pumps have...
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At Majordōmo, a List that Smartly Navigates Wine’s Cultural Divide
Majordōmo arrived in Los Angeles as you might have expected—with the level of media frenzy upon which David Chang, creator of the Momofuku empire, built his career. Maybe even more so because Chang is...
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The Insider’s Guide to Beaujolais
If it seems like Beaujolais—good Beaujolais, the real Beaujolais—is everywhere, that’s not by happenstance. Its moment has been a long time coming. All it took was for its best practitioners to believe...
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At Ruffian, an Antidote to Wine Bar Sameness
Once upon a time, in the dark ages before everyone took their wine advice from Instagram, a wine list had the ability to genuinely surprise you. A further shock: In these olden times, back about a...
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The 25 Essential Wines of 2018
For a generation or more, wines lived in a system guided by numbers—a rigid fortress built out of 100 points. The “how” of these wines—their creation stories—were secondary, if they got any sunlight at...
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The Wine Stories That Will Shape 2019
The wine world is departing 2018 much like the world in general—confused and stressed and not sure what happens next. On one hand it seemed like the rich, fancy wines of the oligarchy were winning this...
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The Quiet Defiance of Decibel
Almost always, we’d come late and stay late. In those days, the bar didn’t even open until 8 p.m. But the path was always the same: Walk down East 9th Street, find the “ON AIR” sign glowing above a...
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When Champagne Just Won’t Do
This roster of sparkling wines under $30 give Champagne a run for its money—for less money. The post When Champagne Just Won’t Do appeared first on PUNCH.
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The Wine Stories That Will Shape 2020
To understand the place wine finds itself in right now, let’s take a quick trip to the Bordeaux town of Pomerol, where on a quiet side road you’ll find Château Gombaude-Guillot. Now, Pomerol sounds...
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France’s “Disco Wines” Are Not Dead
You know you’re in the south when you arrive in Gaillac, either because of the deep southern twang in everyone’s accent—you want a glass of vang, hein?—or because you’ve gotten here by passing through...
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